Northern Areas

The Heaven of Mountaineers

If you are out to see about a dozen of the world’s highest peaks and some of the mightiest glaciers, brace yourself up for an unforgettable journey into Northern Pakistan. Your choice of transport will depend on whether you elect to see these mountains from the vintage point of a PIA 737 window or you prefer to gaze at these wonders as you drive along the famous Karakoram Highway.

Northern Areas occupy an area of 72,496 square km with a population of well over 500 thousand. They connect the country with Peoples’ Republic of China, Afghanistan and Tajikistan. The Baam-e-Duniya (Roof of the World), Pamir Plateau is the apex of six mightiest mountain ranges, including the Karakoram, Himalaya and Hindukush; all three are located in Pakistan.

KARAKORAM HIGHWAY

The Karakoram Highway is the eighth wonder of the world, running through 774 kms of rocky terrain and crossing into the Xinjiang province of China. The Karakoram Highway is a monument to the toil and skill of an army of 15,000 Pakistani and Chinese workers who worked for nearly two decades to master the hazards and challenges that the forbidding terrain offered. Karakoram is rightly called the roof of the world as the highway snakes its way through the Khunjrab Pass at a height of 16,072-feet the highest metalled road in the world.

The journey to the Karakoram really begins from the Federal Capital Islamabad. Driving along the Grand Trunk Road you pass through a series of historical towns and villages dating back to many centuries. A little over thirty miles beyond Islamabad at a town called Hasan Abdal, you bid farewell to the Grand Trunk Road and steer on to the highway north-west. Hasan Abdal is the town where the Chinese Buddhists used to gather to offer homage and where the Sikh religion was born. It is here that the Sikhs from all over the world gather to this date in annual pilgrimage.

The drive from Abbottabad to Gilgit, about 330 miles along the Karakoram Highway is by all accounts thrilling and dramatic. The journey could take 18 hours or more depending on the frequency of rock-slides and the skill of your driver. The highway winds through miles after miles of green hills with pine and a variety of fruit trees lining the asphalt-topped road. Along the way, you will come across the town of Mansehra. The town is famous for its hot water springs and has visible traces of the rule of the Emperor Asoka the Great who preached peace and kindness over two thousand years ago. Epicts bearing his philosophy stand here to this day.

ABBOTTABAD

As you speed across the flat land, you suddenly find yourself driving up an occasionally winding road as you reach Abbottabad at a height of 4,010 feet. This is a picturesque town housing the country’s Military Academy and a number of elitist schools and colleges.

GILGIT

Gilgit is a town resplendent in natural beauty. Set in a valley surrounded by high mountains, Gilgit itself is little under 5000 feet above sea level. It is, however, encompassed by the magnificent and mighty Karakoram range crowned with a couple of the world’s highest peaks - Nanga Parbat 26,660 feet above sea level and Raka Poshi, 25,840 feet both visible from different points in Gilgit.

Although high, rugged and barren, the Karakoram mountains around Gilgit continue to be the grazing ground of snow leopards and the famous but rare Marcopolo sheep.

The Gilgit valley abounds in a variety of fruit bearing trees, terraced fields and gushing springs. Lying in the ancient and traditional trade route between China and Pakistan Gilgit has developed a cosmopolitan atmosphere with the people exceedingly hospitable and friendly and also astute traders. The shops in Gilgit offer a large variety of Pakistani and Chinese merchandise and also goods from various other countries, apparently smuggled over from Afghanistan.

Allama Iqbal’s Mausoleum

Just outside the main entrance of the mosque, in a simple but impressively built mausoleum, lies buried the poet-philosopher of Pakistan - Dr. Muhammad Iqbal. It was he who first visualised an independent state for the Muslims of the South Asia subcontinent and through his forceful poetry, inspired the people to struggle for independence. Smart contingents of Pakistan armed forces stand guard at the Mausoleum.

Polo in Gilgit

The people of Gilgit are natural mountaineers. They have fastidiously developed their values, culture and tradition. The most exciting of these is the fiercely competitive game of polo with annual tournaments drawing as many as 30 teams from different valleys and towns in the region. During the annual tournament days, Gilgit wears a festive look. There is an air of expectancy and excitement as the teams dressed in brightly coloured uniforms parade on their ponies before a chanting and shouting crowd of supporters. An exciting display of tent-pegging precedes the matches which are played to the beating of drums and the blare of pipes all of which give way to the thundering charges of the horses.

PIA operates daily flights to Gilgit that you can take from Islamabad. The total flying time is one hour only. However, all flights are subject to weather conditions.

The best season to visit Gilgit is from May to early October. While mountaineering, trekking and hiking are the most popular pastimes of the tourists visiting Gilgit, the valley and its surroundings also have a number of streams and lakes with an abundance of fishes, the most popular being the trout. Fishing in these lakes and streams is permissible and you can hire fishing rods and obtain a permit for barely three dollars a day.

Gilgit offers a host of clean and comfortable hotels and motels as well as a number of rest houses.

HUNZA

Beyond Gilgit is the Hunza valley having the legendary Shangrila that James Hilton could hardly be imagining when he wrote the Lost Horizon. Remote and isolated, the Hunza valley is separated from the rest of the world by a spectacular landscape of glaciers and sub-polar ice, stark and striking.

The valley epitomises health and vitality where an average man survives almost hundred years.

The secret of the Hunza health and vitality is said to be the water from the large number of natural springs that flow in abundance in this valley. This may perhaps be more mythical than real. The water from these natural springs is, however, sweet and refreshing and also invigorating.

The Hunza valley and Karimabad present a stunning site that is out of this world. On the one hand there is the might and the majesty of numerous peaks, a number of them about 8000 metres and on the other, the colourful abundance of the terraced fields. As you gaze up the towering and glorious Rakaposhi peak and look down at the fast flowing Hunza river criss-crossing through the Hunza valley, you will need a pinch or two to come out of the state of bewilderment.

Mountaineering, Trekking and Hiking

Hunza is yet another ideal place for mountaineering, trekking and hiking. However, you need to ask for the permission from the Tourism Division, Government of Pakistan.

How to get there

Hunza is linked with road only. Hence, you can take a bus or a jeep to reach there from Gilgit.

CHITRAL

Yet another valley that has unfolded its magnificence and beauty to the tourists after the rebuilding of the Karakoram highway is Chitral, situated 3,700 feet above sea-level. Bordered by Afghanistan on its north, south and west, a narrow, finger-like strip of Afghan territory separates Chitral from Tajikistan. Bounded by the mighty peaks in the Hindukush range, Chitral offers to the adventurous mountain climbers the famous mount Trichmir with a height of 25,264 feet, as it stands out in all its glory.

While the people inhabiting these mountainous regions of Northern Pakistan speak many languages with varying dialects, their binding force is their religion. They are predominantly Muslims. Islam is, therefore, an integral part of the social and cultural fabric of the people of this region. Kafir- Kalash amidst these devoutly Islamic people, has survived a community of pagans known as the Kalash, a people who are variously described as the descendants of Alexander the Great’s warrior and the White Huns. The 3000 strong Kafir-Kalash community lives in the three small valleys around Chitral known as Kafiristan or the land of the pagans. The largest of these valleys is 40 kms from Chitral which in itself is 350 kms to the west of Gilgit.

This small Kafir-Kalash community which has so far preserved its ancient faith of nature and animal worship is now in danger of extinction. With the opening of the area through the Karakoram Highway as well as regular PIA air service, the wind of change is all too evident. Tourists flock here in large numbers and the Kafirs, both men and women, lay on their religious and cultural ceremonies in exchange of a small sum. Although increasingly assuming commercial overtones, these ceremonies clearly indicate the respect and reverence that this community has for nature and its various manifestations. These stage-managed ceremonies also remained unchanged for more than 3000 years.

Chitral is well connected by road from Gilgit and Peshawar, the provincial capital of the North-West Frontier Province. There is also a regular PIA service from Peshawar to Chitral. Tourists can stay in reasonably priced hotels besides a comfortable motel run by the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation.

Garam Chashma

And while in the Chitral region, do not forget to visit the natural hot spring called the Garam Chashma-45 kms north-west of Chitral. This hot spring resort, about 6000 ft above sea-level offers an ideal retreat for those seeking peace and quiet in one of the most picturesque regions of the world.

Mountaineering, hiking and trekking

The excitement and thrill of Chitral lies as much in the mountaineering trekking and hiking as in the fishing and shooting potential that the valley and its surroundings hold for the tourists. The time to visit this fascinating valley is between April and September. Fishing in the streams and hunting of some of the rare species like the snow leopard, musk-deer and Maarkhor is, however, prohibited.

SKARDU-BALTISTAN

The saga that is Northern Pakistan continues to unfold itself on either side of the marvel that is Karakoram Highway. Bordering the Chinese province of Sinkiang (Xinjiang) and the Indian-held Kashmir is Baltistan, also known as the Little Tibet. This description of Baltistan is primarily on account of the style of living that bears striking similarity to the land of the Lamas.

Baltistan boasts of a number of mountain peaks and huge glaciers. The region is also famous for its apples, peaches, apricots, pears and a variety of other fruits that grow in wild abundance in its five valleys; the best known being Skardu which is the administrative headquarter of the region. Skardu also attracts a number of mountaineers every year as the Shigar Valley, 32 kilometres by jeep from Skardu, is the gateway to the mountian peaks of the Karakoram.

If you are flying in a PIA Fokker, you would find yourself at a hand-shaking distance with the enormous black and grey rocks of the mountains as the aircraft wings its way to Skardu, flying over the gorge of the river Indus. Located at the bank of River Indus, Skardu is within half an hour’s drive from three beautiful lakes which are ideal for boating and fishing.

K2

K-2, the world’s second highest peak, rising 28,250 feet above sea level, is located in Pakistan, lower only to Mount Everest. The majesty and the mystery of this mighty peak has attracted a very large number of expeditions, all keen to conquer the highest peak of the Karakoram range, K-2, the Mount Godwin Austin. Rises majestically near the huge Baltoro glacier in the extreme north of Baltistan, it has been the centre of attraction for mountaineers for over a hundred years.

Accessibility to Skardu

Located at 7,500 feet above sea level, Skardu is also a popular tourist resort with PIA operating daily flights from the Federal Capital Islamabad. The flight to Skardu is as dramatic, thrilling and captivating as the one to Gilgit.

SWAT VALLEY

The beauty that is Pakistan is not just confined to the country’s mountainous north. South of the Gilgit valley and north of Peshawar, across the Malakand Pass, is the lush green valley of Swat which stretches out towards the Hindukush range of mountains. The valley of Swat is the Udayana, or the garden of the ancient Hindu epics, the name given to this land of unsurpassable beauty. It is here that Alexander the Great encountered opposing armies before marching down to the subcontinental plains.

Swat valley has been aptly described as a scenic wonderland where Buddhism flourished 2000 years ago. The valley was infact the cradle of Buddhism where three of its major schools were born. It was here that the famous Gandhara school of sculpture took roots, giving expression to the Greco-Roman form in the local Buddhist tradition. The valley still retains the ruins of Buddhist stupas, monasteries and statues. The most striking of these is the massive carving of the sitting Buddha, carved into a rock face.

As the sun sets over the impressive Fortress Stadium, the venue of the show, fireworks display, military tattoos and brass band pageants enliven the evenings and enthrall the spectators.

Despite the various battles fought here over the centuries, a cloud of serenity still overhangs the valley. An atmosphere of peace and contentment prevails. Swat is one of those places that attract visitors the year round with its invigorating climate, with flowers and fruits blossoming almost the year round.

For the fun and game loving, the valley provides excellent hunting and angling opportunities. The valley abounds in leopards, brown and black bear, a variety of wild goats and black and grey partridges. Shooting permit is obtainable for specified animals between October and March. The almost quiet and placid Swat river offers an abundance of trout, the season for which starts in April.

Saidu Sharif & Mingora

Saidu Sharif is the capital of valley, while Mingora is frequently used as a base-camp for the touring people from across the world. The Swat Museum in Saidu Sharif is very rich for it has finest collections of Gandhara Art.

Mingora lying at a distance of 3.21 km/2 miles from Saidu Sharif, offers marvellous pieces of Buddhist sculpture. There you can buy shawls, table mats, gold-threaded purse and caps, emeralds, some other gems, woodwork and pure honey.

Accessibility to Swat

Situated at an elevation of 3,200 feet above the sea level, Swat is 257 kilometres from Rawalpindi-Islamabad and only 177 kilometres from Peshwar-Rawalpindi.

KAGHAN VALLEY

Amongst the valleys of Northern Pakistan, the one that has remained the most unspoilt and intriguing even today, is the picturesque Kaghan, much of which still remains mysterious and inaccessible. The Kaghan valley is 155 kilometres long and is connected with Rawalpindi-Islamabad and Peshawar by a metalled road drive which is an exhilarating experience in itself. Surrounded by the Himalayan peaks, mighty glaciers, beautiful lakes and cascading waterfalls, Kaghan is something of a paradise on earth.

The road to the valley zigzags along the Kunhar river, sloping up as it reaches Balakot, the gateway to the valley. Beyond Balakot, the road into Kaghan is uphill with deep ravines to your left and the massive mountains to your right. Kaghan is located at 7000 feet above sea level and has a comfortable rest house for tourists. Beyond Kaghan is the beautiful valley of Naran, a popular tourist resort with unlimited mountaineering, hiking and fishing opportunities.

Lake Saiful Mulook

After all the wanderings in the valleys and mountains of Pakistan’s norhern region, it will be worth while to save some time for yet an unforgettable experience. Take the jeepable track from Naran and few miles away at 3000 feet above the valley is the Lake Saiful Mulook. Nestled at a height of 10,500 feet, Lake Saiful Mulook can better be seen than described. The beauty of the reflection of the snow-clad mountains that surround this lake cannot be adequately reflected even on a picture post-card. Lake is named after prince Saiful Mulook who, as local legend has it fell in love with a fairy. True or false as that may be, it is difficult not to fall in love with the lake and of course with the beauty that is Pakistan.